Friday, September 30, 2011

Vast Nothingness

The majority of Wyoming, excluding the Yellowstone and Grand Teton area, is a wasteland of vast nothingness without change from the 350 miles or so east to west. In fact, it is the least populous state in the union and from the moment I crossed from Nebraska to Wyoming, I could see why. I drove about 50 miles on four separate occasions without seeing a single man-made structure (sometimes because of open range, not even a fence line along the lonely two-lane highway) as far as the eye could see in every direction.

I was a little apprehensive heading west from Iowa. The last three states I had visited: Illinois, Missouri, and Iowa had all bored me with their landscapes. Slight rolling hills and corn. Oh, and some soy. Over and over again for hundreds of miles weaving through the tri-state area. This is the first time I have traveled and been bored by the scenery. In fact, I even prided myself in loving the states that were least loved like the Dakotas and Oklahoma. Upon entering Nebraska, everything changed from corn fields to cattle grazing land. So beautiful!!! I ended up driving at night trying to make it the rest of Nebraska and I could drive MILES without seeing any light from anything. (I kept checking my brights because they just didn't light anything it was so dark)

Wyoming is desert mountains high desert plains. This territory is ancient, God-forsaken, eerie, peaceful. The mountains, where you can see the layers of earth jutting out at an angle tell of earthquakes and disasters occurring millions of years in the past. One almost expects a triceratops to emerge behind a hill, or even to see a UFO crash site in a field. I stopped the car and got out. Since it was still early, there was little wind so I couldn't even hear THAT. The only sound were my ears ringing. If you ever have a chance, I suggest you go hang out by yourself in the desert out in the middle of nowhere to hear yourself think. If you can't stand the silence, make some changes.
Silly Wyoming...that isn't a road.

Off to interview in Cokeville, WY, on the southwest corner of the state. The dot on the map was pretty big so I was expecting something pretty decent-sized.

Population: 506. Even in the center of town there was deafening silence. How did I end up at all these small towns?? The people turned out to be pretty friendly, for the most part. In contrast to Stuart, NE that has a similar population, they were much more welcoming to "move-ins" I interviewed a girl who had moved to Cokeville from Nevada. The town natives agreed that "Once you move in, you're one of us...whether you like it or not!!" On the other hand, Stuart-ans talked of another resident saying, "Well, he's just a move-in." "Oh yeah? How long has he lived here?" I asked. "36 years." Which goes to show you how different towns are even if they have the same industry and population.

It was nearing sundown. I was sitting at the bar with a glass of water in my hands. Suddenly the doors to the cafe swing open. The barmaids gasp and flee to the kitchen. A baby cries. The silhouettes of four large men, their cowboy hats casting shadows over their faces, linger in the door way. "Well?" One barks. "Are we gonna git service?" The waitress shuffles around the bar to show them to their table. They swagger in a slow mosey in their chaps and tight Wranglers. I could hear the sound of the spurs hit the old wooden blanked floor and tried not to make eye contact with them.

Ok, so that's an exaggeration of what happened, but I snapped a picture of two of them heading back to their truck. Wyoming ranchers make Texans look like frail city boys.
Now I'm surrounded by Mormons in a Salt Lake City suburb. My next destination was going to be Hanksville--located right between several national parks but i think it would be more interesting and better to get a larger city as I have done interviews in so many small towns. Oh yeah, landscape-wise, Utah blows all the other states out of the water...hands DOWN. Ok Wyoming has a lot of beauty as well in the northwestern part and Montana too. But Utah wins. Visit there.

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